Upon my return after Christmas, I found myself in quite an awkward situation. The Country Director of CNP decided that I was not allowed to live or even co
me to work in the CNP/DSI house. Amidst my contract being terminated early with CNP due to funding cuts, a lot of changes were made in CNP in terms of staffing and the way in which the situation was handled on the ground. There were a lot of decisions made that I didn't agree with and I spoke my opinion to the Country Director (I am sure this is no surprise to anyone). Let's just say, that didn't go over very well and she took it upon herself to ban me from the house because she felt that my attitude was detrimental to the living and working environment.
Not being able to live in the house forced me to do something that I had wanted to do – to find a homestay family - because I didn’t like being so isolated from the community in the house. However, it did take on a different meaning when it was something that was forced upon me and not a choice I had made. Unfortunately, my potential homestay families fell through. There are so many people in Leogane that don’t have a home themselves, so it is difficult to find a house to stay that is liveable and has some security measures. I ended up being taken in by a Gadyen Dlo staff member, Jean Alliance, who lives at his grandmother’s house. During this time, I was overwhelmed by the support of all my Haitian friends, co-workers, etc. They all were very upset and wanted to make sure I knew that even though I didn’t have family here, that their families and homes were mine as well. It was ironic that the people that I had supposedly come here to help were the ones now helping and taking care of me. I experienced firsthand the amazing and generous way that they take care of each other, including me.
My whole way of life in Leogane, a place that I had come to know and feel a part of, was completely changed. It was quite an adjustment going from living in an amazing house, feeling like I was part of an ex-pat club, to living in a house with no electricity, running water, no one to cook or clean for you, no car to drive you places, etc. In addition to my housing situation, sadly most of my friends had finished their contracts and were no longer here. Also, the entire dance scene in Leogane had changed (no more Tuesday and Saturday pratik) which was my usual outlet and social time during the week.
I struggled with feeling like I didn’t have a place where I belonged and in many ways, things were very foreign to me. I realized how spoiled and isolated I had been during my previous stay. I truly had no idea how difficult daily life is for Haitians.
I soon adapted to life here - learning to work from cyber cafes, taking motos and tap taps to get around (and how much you can actually carry on a moto), bargaining at the market, making dinner just using my headlamp for light, realizing the convenience of the street vendor food, and so much more.
Here are just a few things I have learned….
1) You should always carry your cell phone charger with you to take advantage of electricity when you find it.
2) You should always get on a motorcycle from the left side, not the right side. The exhaust pipe is on the right side and it is really hot and will burn your leg (I have the scar to prove it now).
3) It is extremely difficult it to plan ahead for meals and to try and save food when you don’t have a refrigerator.
4) The advantage of “road side” service. The little shops and mechanics along the side of the road do come in handy when your car breaks down. They can fix your car way faster than having it towed to a garage....
5) It is actually very nice it is to buy things out of your car from people on the street. It just means you have one less place you have to go when you get home. (I may have been spotted buying TP from a box truck in a traffic jam).
6) I resent NGOs in their nice vehicles who drive by, kicking up dust that flies into your face as you walk or are on a moto.
7) I appreciate the people who throw water on the dirt roads outside their homes to prevent the dust from stirring up when people drive over it.
8) It is easier to eat a big lunch than dinner. When you have no electricity at night, it is difficult to make meals, so it is easier to buy a big lunch and eat something little for dinner.
9) You should never give a Haitian woman an entire container of your good laundry soap. She will use it all on just a small amount of clothes.
10) You should always clean with something that smells good, even if it isn’t the intended purpose. Clearly it is necessary to put shampoo in with the bleach water you are mopping with just because it smells nice....what was I thinking?
11) Their lives are difficult and no matter how hard we try to understand their lives, we will never completely understand. The opportunities available to us as Americans (i.e. access to education, ability to travel anywhere in the world, etc.) are unbelievable and something that not everyone in the world has.
While life has been exhausting in many ways, I have come to love my new life and my new home. It is nice to come home from work every day and actually be done with work. While life is far more difficult in many ways, it is also refreshing to not have the internet at home and to enjoy the quiet and beauty of both this country and its people. I have a new profound respect for Haiti and its culture.
