Kanaval

February 27, 2011

Carnival is an exciting and colorful event that is celebrated throughout the Carribean, with each island having a unique method and timing of celebrating it. While each are unique, they are commonly known for their elaborate costumes, bands, and parades. Carnival is rooted in European history and falls prior to Lent. It is believed that Carnival in the Carribbean began in the 1700s with slaves blending African traditions in using masks and dancing to scare away bad spirits with mocking the masquerade balls of their plantation owners.

In Haiti, Carnival ("kanaval" in Haitian Kreyol) is celebrated both in Jacmel and in Port-au-

Prince. Kanaval in Jacmel occurs two weekends prior to Fat Tuesday and the Kanaval in Port-au-Prince occurs the weekend prior to Fat Tuesday. Kanaval in Port-au-Prince draws more people, but mostly showcases Haitian Kompas music while Kanaval in Jacmel is known for its traditional paper mache masks, costumes and ra-ra bands.

I was lucky enough to be able to go to Jacmel to experience Kanaval this year. I learned just how creative Haitian artists and people are. I was able to see what they created and what a blend of history, politics, current events and so much more they were able to create and express through this amazing event.

As Leah Gordon describes, "The characters and costume partially betray their roots in medieval European carnival, but the Jacmellian masquerades are also a fusion of clandestine Vodou, ancestral memory, political satire and personal revelation. The lives of the indigenous Taino Indians, the slaves' revolt and more recently state corruption are all played out using drama and costume on Jacmel's streets... [Haitian culture] is a vibrant, living avatar for not only Haitian history, but for all our histories.

During Kanaval, many people walk the streets in masks made from paper mache, singing, dancing and acting out skits. Below is a video of a group who approached us while we were on the beach.

Next, we headed to the parade in town where people showcase their creations.

One of the standard groups present in the parade each year are the "chaloska". They dress in military gear, stove pipe hats and wear masks that have large red lips and animal teeth. They march in rememberance of the 1915 massacre of political priosoners, carried out by the chief of police at the time, Charles Oscar Otienne. They perform politically charged mock trials and read lists of offenses that satirize the Tonton Macouts, secret police of the Duvalier era.

Another staple in the parade are the lanse kòd "rope throwers". They cover themselves in a concoction of cane syrup and powdered charcoal and dart at the crowd, swinging long whips in the air. They often wear Beelzebub's horns and are demonic representations of the experience of slavery.

The political history is always present within the parade, changing from year to year, but always present. Kanaval becomes an open forum for the people to discuss and depict the political struggles and instability as well as the catastrophes and other things the country has endured. Above is a photograph of Aristide along with his passport upon his "return" to Haiti (this did actually happen in March, but prior to his return, it was just joked about). Also above they are dressed as the UN troops who have a very controversial presence in Haiti.

These are the Zel Mathurin (Wings of Mathurin) who are winged devils that act out the battle between good and evil.

The parade also embraces events of current concern. This year, it featured cholera. They had a person depicting the microbe of cholera, a water tap, a bar of soap, a piece of poop, a trash can, a fly and skeletons. The fly flew around showing different means of contamination leading to infection and death by cholera. I thought it was particularly clever.

Other characters that were depicted in the parade included birds, prophets and saints, traditional dancers, heroes of the Haitian culture, creatures of the imagination and so much more.

Above are some of the ones I found impressive from birds to the dinosaurs "fighting" for the crowd. It is hard to believe it is all made from paper mache! I was amazed at their creativity and artistic excellence.

I should also mention that Michael and I got to meet Sweet Mickey (now the incoming president of Haiti) and Wyclef Jean at the parade.

It was a wonderful weekend and experience. I learned how amazingly creative and talented Haitian artists are as well as was able to experience an event that was able to showcase so many different aspects of Haitian culture and history. Kanaval is not just a fun event, but an event that provides a means of expressing the many things they have endured over the years.